I want, once to be gone to mountains and never return...
~: Life is Beautiful :~
Tuesday, August 28, 2012
Tuesday, November 08, 2011
Chopta-Tungnath-Chandrashila
Chopta-Tungnath-Chandrashila
is one of the most popular treks because of it's shorter
duration and amazing views. It was my third time on this trek each one
has a very special memory associated. Reaching the starting point Chopta
from Hrishikesh takes about 8 hours, through Devprayag,
Srinagar and Rudraprayag where the route
splits for Kedarnath and Badrinath. For Chopta take the Kedarnath route
and take a detour after Kundli, before Guptkashi, this detour goes via
Ukimath.
Lord Shiva and his entourage moves from Kedarnath to Ukimath during
winters.
Breakfast @ Devprayag
Ukimath to Chopta |
After the detour, drive gets on to the picture perfect route through rhododendron valley. This part of journey is a pleasant change from the intensely commercialized Delhi-Badrinath/Kedarnath route because there is hardly any regular tourist/pilgrims flow, as only those who wish to cover both Kedarnath and Badrinath take this route. Local traffic is also thin and hardly any construction activity is in-progress, even the towns enroute Chopta are quite and sleepy. This is when you feel first time the freedom from hustle bustle of city.
Fifteen minutes before reaching Chopta the route uncovers into lush green meadows or Bugyals. For people who wish to stay in relatively "more" comfortable accommodation can opt for Mayadeep Guest house in Dugalibbitta, just fifteen mins from Chopta, else accommodation at Chopta are also pretty decent. Once you reach Chopta, you can choose to stay at one of the few lodges, one of them is Hotel Neelkanth with off season rate ~500Rs for a 3 bed room off-season (Late Oct to April), during season it could go upto 1500 as well, since it a religious destination. One can find decent food at couple of dhabas which serve pretty much everything.
Either you can start trek around 2 A.M to reach Chandrashila directly
before sunrise, or if possible reach Tungnath on day 1 early before sun
down and stay at one of the few lodges (mere hutments) or Kali-kamli
dharamshala. Since a drive from Hrishikesh takes
about 7-8 hours, one reaches Chopta around 4 in the evening, so it is
better to stay at Chopta and take rest and start in the late hours for
Chandrashila directly, rather than pushing for Tungnath same day. If one
wishes, it is good to make a short 1 hour
trip on the Tungnath route to get into the groove and acclimatize a
bit. Come back have food and take rest. We started at 2 in the morning
along with a local guide, just incase any help is required. Otherwise
also these hills are quite safe, in terms of both
humans and animals and there is no incident reported, moreover the
route till Tungnath is completely cemented path till Tungnath, with
chest-tall guard-grills on tricky portions. Since the initial route is
through thick forests it is good to have a local,
accompany you for a sum of ~400Rs.
Bugyals |
It takes a while before your muscles get warmed up on the steep gradient. Initial part is through rhododendron forests, though were no flowers now, it looks really good when rhododendrons are at full bloom. Nevertheless after this initial trek of some 800 mts in pitch dark, we reached a point where view opens up into the bugyals, with the majestic Chaukhamba in the backdrop, visible during the day. From here one can see the zig-zag path going up till the top. There are few small shops and shepherd huts, which are occupied during the season. Since we were here when it was getting too cold, all were abandoned till next season. One advantage of starting at night is psychological, as you don't know what lies ahead, so it's a bit easy to cover the hour and a half climb of moderate grade.
looking back at the slopes
|
After almost two hours in the trek, the other portion of the mountain is uncovered, marked by a small hutment with few bells and a Trishul placed next to it. On this face is a straight path leading to Tungnath. The path is straight however still not easy on the gradient. From this point is also visible the Tungnath and Chandrashila peak. Halfway on this path, there is a Ganesh Temple on the right, on the way back you can climb the stairs to Ganesh temple to see the view of entire Chamoli valley on the other side.
looking back from ganesh temple
|
Just
before entering Tungnath, there is a small tea-shop and lodge (Hotel
Devlok), we made a stop-over there for hot Maggie,
it’s owner Sri Sujan Rana a very nice person. You can also stay here
incase you choose to stay at Tungnath. After this pit-stop you can push
directly for the peak, crossing Tungnath (3600 mts), take the path going right of
the stairs leading to Tungnath temple.
This path is is a narrow path and initial portion is lil tricky, with deep valley on the right. After couple of hundred meters, the path is again a zig-zag climb on the west face of Chandrashila.
way to Chandrashila
|
notice the temple on the peak at top |
Since this path is a kachha rasta and dotted by loose stones and rocks, one has to be
really careful, further because of morning frost, stones become quite slippery and extreme care needs to be taken.
After about a 45 mins climb on the pahadi rasta, view of lifetime
welcomes you. The peak is adorned by a small temple and lots of
Cairns.It is believed that Lord Ram meditated in penance after killing
Ravan on the
peak of
Chandrashila, literally meaning moon-rock.
As soon as the first light of day breaks, one gets magnificent views of
Chaukhamba, Kedarnath, KedarDom, Gangotri peaks on the left..Till you
wait for the sunrise, you can enjoy the calm of this place. Despite the
bone chilling cold and winds at the peak, it
is the place where one can be at sort of divine peace. At 4100
mts this is one of the highest points around, one can get a superb 360
degree un-obstructed view of the valley and majestic peaks beyond.
Before
the sun rose from beyond the peaks the first light of sun gave a golden
hue to
the majestic massif of Chaukhamba, no matter how many time I visit this
place, I am spellbound by the beauty. By the time you enjoy the
mountain tip turning scarlet to the whole mountains turning golden, sun
sneaks out of the peaks at a distance for a breathtaking
sunrise. As the sun rises on the horizon all the chill and weariness
gives away to the views of lifetime, unveiled by the sun, layers beyond
layers of mountains, till the great walls of ice peaks. Like any other
such place, you have to be there to get the
complete feel.
looking back at the shadow of chandrashila |
After spending some more
time on the peak we headed back, in the sunlight frost starts melting
making rocks slippery and dangerous, it could take more time and caution
to get down on this slippery path down till
Tungnath
Temple. Tungnath is the highest of the 5 Kedars, viz
Kedarnath, Rudranath, Madhyamaheshwar, Kalpeshwar & Tungnath. It’s a
small shrine which looks pretty much like Kedarnath, with ancient idols
of lord Shiva and other deities.
One
can offer prayers in peace and get the puja done in a quiet and simple
manner, unlike most temples. You can also contribute for the maintenance
of the temple. After a relaxed maggie and Parantha break at Ganesh
hotel, another place to stay at Tungnath, we headed back to Chopta
through the same route making small stopovers. On the way down one can
enjoy the awesome vies and the green slopes. On the
way down we came across lot of pilgrims on ponies and on foot, eager
for darshan of lord Tungnath, on 30th October it is one of the last
chances to get darshan this year, as the temple close on 2nd November,
with Kedarnath temple already closed. During this
season it is quite unpredictable of the weather, as it cab turn bad
anytime, most of our trek from Tungnath to Chandrashila was under the
thick cloud cover. We were lucky that the views opened up as we reached
the peak. On the way down, most of the views were
under the cloud cover.
In
the broad daylight one can see the wide and deep views. Also, we saw
the steep slopes
on which we had made our way up till Tungnath. Before reaching back,
you can make multiple halts for enjoying the bugyals and fresh air.
Story of Tungnath Temple (source - wikipedia)
The
Tunganath myth is indelibly linked to the origin of the Panch Kedar
temples built by the Pandavas. The legend states that sage Vyas Rishi
advised the Pandavas that since they were culpable to the slaying of
their own relatives (Kauravas, their cousins) during
the Mahabharata war or Kurukshetra war, their offense could be pardoned
only by Lord Shiva.
Consequently, the Pandavas went in search of Shiva who was avoiding them
since he was convinced of the guilt of Pandavas. In order to keep away
from them, Shiva took the form of a bull and went into hiding in an
underground safe haven at Guptakashi, where Pandavas
chased him.
But later Shiva’s body in the form of bull’s body parts rematerialized
at five different locations that represent the “Panch Kedar” where
Pandavas built temples of Lord Shiva at each location, to worship and
venerate, seeking his pardon and blessings. Each
one is identified with a part of his body.
Tungnath is identified as the place where the bahu (hands) were seen,
hump was seen at Kedarnath, head at Rudranath, his navel and stomach
surfaced at Madhyamaheshwar and his jata (hair or locks) at Kalpeshwar.
Contacts @ Chopta/Tungnath -
Hotel Neelkanth, Chopta -
off-season rates - 500, for a room with 3 beds.
season rates - can go upto 1500
Birendra (our Guide) - 9458912994; he charged us 400Rs for trek till Chandrashila.
Hotel Devlok, Tungnath - 9927590165 (sri Sujan Rana)
off-season rates - 100-200 for 3 bed
season rates - 300-400
Ganesh Hotel - 7457906080
off-season rates - 200-300 for 6 bed
season rates - ~500
Typical season is Mid-May to September end.
More photos @ Flickr
Hotel Neelkanth, Chopta -
off-season rates - 500, for a room with 3 beds.
season rates - can go upto 1500
Birendra (our Guide) - 9458912994; he charged us 400Rs for trek till Chandrashila.
Hotel Devlok, Tungnath - 9927590165 (sri Sujan Rana)
off-season rates - 100-200 for 3 bed
season rates - 300-400
Ganesh Hotel - 7457906080
off-season rates - 200-300 for 6 bed
season rates - ~500
Typical season is Mid-May to September end.
More photos @ Flickr
Saturday, June 04, 2011
we, about to reach Hampta Pass, almost an year ago...
Time to go back to mountains...
Higher this time ;)
Sunday, October 17, 2010
Monday, September 13, 2010
Saturday, July 31, 2010
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Watched blood diamond, so much pain and suffering in the world.
Danny dies with hope that Solomon will be happy, a life worthy. He died in
peace. How many really die in peace and after a life which was worth.
I hope my life is worth something before I die. May no one remember me
as a good person but I hope I do make a difference before I say my
final goodbye . I do not wish to die in glory but in peace.
Danny dies with hope that Solomon will be happy, a life worthy. He died in
peace. How many really die in peace and after a life which was worth.
I hope my life is worth something before I die. May no one remember me
as a good person but I hope I do make a difference before I say my
final goodbye . I do not wish to die in glory but in peace.
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